Enter the domain of the Hung Kings. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

After following Hanoi's Red River on elevated backroads for two hours, we cross it and enter Phu Tho province, home of the Hung Kings. For Hung Kings Day (the 10th day of the 3rd month in the Lunar calendar), Vietnam celebrates its ancient rulers at the Hung King's Temple, located on the forested peak of Nghia Linh. Thousands of Vietnamese flock to the steep mountain trail, wishing to honor the well-respected royals.

The Hung Kings existed far before the modern Communist Party or the imperial Nguyen Dynasty. According to legend, they ruled the first people of Vietnam, who were conceived by Lac Long Quan and Au Co. In the aftermath of their divine divorce, the Hung Kings stepped up to defend their Vietnamese siblings from foreign invaders.

Many view these figures as Vietnam's first warriors, defending the homeland at all costs. It isn't a surprise that President Ho Chi Minh used the imagery of the Hung Kings in his fight for independence; “The Hung Kings had the merit of creating our country. We, their descendants, must defend it.”

Under the eyes of the Hùng King. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

An ancient defender of Vietnam. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

Joe Crook, a fellow expat, and I arrive at the great temple a few weeks before the holiday. Although there is still much preparation for the dragon dances, festival games, and folk performances, the site still sees many visitors.

A lot of the local attention is on us. Many Vietnamese families gives us a friendly wave and a few handshakes. The young children excitedly mock our reaction to the temple, "Wow, wow, wow!"

As a new expat, Joe Crook is fascinated by Vietnamese history and culture. Admiring the fierce visage of the Hung Kings, Joe ponders an encounter with them on an ancient battlefield.

"They look epic. Imagine coming across one of these guys with their heavy armour on horseback. You'd go running the other way," says Joe. "They're pretty ferocious, even with the pointy shoes."

Joe Crook, a British expat, enjoyed meeting new friends at the temple. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

Steep steps ahead. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

"Go on then, Joe!" Photo by Glen MacDonald

An ancient gate. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

The trail is steep and the steps are small, a perilous circumstance for a clumsy, big-footed Western gentleman like myself. Nevertheless, we march on, under the watchful eyes of the Hung Kings.

Sweat pours down our faces, much to the amusement of the cheery Vietnamese. With fresh faces and big smiles, they calmly walk past us as we take a break to hydrate. Even the old women outpace us, passing with a musical laugh.

"Xin chào thưa cô!" Photo by Joe Crook.

The peak is surrounded by various temples, mausoleums, and a blanket of trees that obscures the view of world below. Perhaps this is why the first Hung King chose this spot as his ancient capital. From atop the dizzying mountaintop and under the shady branches, it feels as if you are in peaceful, magical realm, blessed by dragon riding kings.

The temple on the peak. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

Happy monks. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

A turtle lounges in a courtyard's pond. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

The view from Nghia Linh mountain. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

We finish our adventure at a giant mosaic, depicting Vietnam's legendary history. Joe, an amateur juggler, attempts to entertain some Vietnamese visitors. His colorful balls fly pass images of dragon kings and fairy queens, warriors and poets, Vietnam's ancient past and bright future.

Juggling Joe Crook. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

On our way home, a kind rice farmer waves at us. Photo by Glen MacDonald.

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